Waiting for a whale shark

It’s a beautiful day with a cooling breeze and calm, crystal-clear waters underneath a dazzling blue sky.

I’m in a dhoni with six people. In the middle of the boat is our gear: masks, snorkels, ice box with drinks, and a bag full of snacks. We are well-stocked for a long day at sea.

From time to time we cross paths with other boats. European tourists, lazily sunning on deck, whizz past in speedboats. A dhoni passes full of Chinese tourists, geared up in snorkels, masks and life vests, ready to jump at a moment’s notice.